VIALUXE:
Mr. Klaus, thank you for your time. Can you tell me what made you want to become a watchmaker?
KURT KLAUS:
As a boy, I liked to work or play with small things. So I had my small cars to construct - but everything I did - it had to be small.
As so I wanted to learn something in micro-mechanics and one of these things is watchmaking. And so with this idea, I had the possibility to go to watchmaking school in Switzerland to learn hand-crafted watchmaking during my four years. Almost all watchmaking in Switzerland (the industry) is in the west part of the country, but I was born in the east part, so I went there to learn watchmaking.
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VIALUXE:
After you graduated from watchmaking school, what made you choose to go to IWC?
KURT KLAUS:
Because I was born in the east part of Switzerland, I wanted to go back in this part of the country and I had no choice. IWC was the only manufacture in this part of Switzerland. So I went to Schauffhausen. I asked, "Do you need a young watchmaker?"
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There I got an interview with Mr. Albert Pellaton, the technical director of IWC during this period. He said "Ok, you can start to work." So I started in January of 1957, and now in 2008, I am still here...
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VIALUXE:
Wow, that’s a great story. So when you got to IWC, what was the first watch you got to work on?
KURT KLAUS:
In the beginning, I had to learn a lot. After learning everything in school, I had to learn more. Mr. Pellaton said to me, "IWC watchmaker is not just a watchmaker, he is an IWC watchmaker!" And so I had to learn and I started to assemble movements. I remember the first movement I assembled was the hand-winding wristwatch movement for the Mark XI. -the pilot’s watch for the Royal Air Force. This was my first memory.
Later then, I assembled the first IWC automatic winding watches developed by Albert Pellaton.
VIALUXE:
The Pellaton winding system is an amazing technological advance for IWC. Can you talk a little bit about it for those who don't know how it works?
KURT KLAUS:
The Pellaton movement is one thing he developed. A new movement. A wristwatch movement with a very spacial automatic winding system. Usually the winding weight was turning around and they wound up in only one direction. Pellaton wanted to make something, a system that would wind up in both directions. And so he defined a very spacial mechanism that was different from all others on the market with a click system that are always winding up the movement. Albert Pellaton taught me, in the construction, to make everything as simple and robust as possible and he did this in his new winding system. It was so perfect, when I started to develop my first automatic movement in 1995 - which was the new Big Portuguese automatic movement - I said "this Pellaton system is so good", I used the same without any changes - I used the parts from Pellaton to set into this new automatic movement. This is Albert Pellaton and this is my memory to him.
VIALUXE:
What is the meaning of a Kurt Klaus watch?
KURT KLAUS:
Today it’s about the same as Albert Pellaton taught me. A watch is robust. I do not like the super slim movements. This is not IWC and this is not Kurt Klaus. I want to make something robust. So for instance, this new movement, in the Big Portuguese Automatic, is a little bit thick, but it is robust. And then next one, I made a concept for the new automatic for the Ingenieur, the 30mm. It is a little bit too thick, but it is robust. It is the same automatic winding system in it - and it works.
This is one thing but - for from the moment - I was developing complications. I had some real fascination for high complicated movements. The first perpetual calendar, IWC perpetual calendar, was very new at this time. It was different from all others. It was very easy for the user to adjust. And because of this - it was easier to produce. Because I was not so happy with all the other perpetual calendars before with all the push buttons around it to set the date - to set the moon phase and I was searching and I found a system to only turn the crown and the whole calendar system together moves. So when the IWC perpetual calendar stands still, you go for holidays - you don't use it - and then you have to adjust it. You pull the crown, and all indications move together. You turn until the date hand is on the correct date and all the others are correct - automatically.
And this was a real novelty in the year 1985. It was never before so easy to set a perpetual calendar. And, without all these push buttons, there were less parts inside - in the movement. So we had less parts to produce - less parts to assemble, and so this - again was the same as 40 years ago - something simple. So easy for the user, easy to produce, less parts, easy to assemble and the result was a lower price for the mechanism and the possibility to produce more. We were able - a few years later in the 90's able to produce more perpetual calendars then the rest of the watch industry together - because it was easier - but with the most and best indications. It was only the first indicating the whole year in all four digits. We have here - the year, it is a little bit small - the year 2008. And it changes automatically every end of the year. It was the first.
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So, less parts - but more indications. With all these crazy ideas - I was working over four years - without any computer. In this time - I started in 1980-81. I didn't exactly know what was a computer - so I had everything to calculate in my mind to make the drawings with the pencil. Today young people cannot imagine how to work (without a computer) - but it was a calendar - over 22 years later - it is still the best.montblanc replica watches